Sunday, April 26, 2026

Easter Vigil in Lecce



Spring break is always the week after Easter.  Monday is a national holiday, Pasquetta, little Easter.  This year we decided to explore the heel of the boot in Puglia.  I loved Lecce, with it's unique Baroque architecture.  Matera was magical and Bari was surprisingly enjoyable.

The most memorable experience was the Easter Vigil at the Duomo in Lecce.  We strolled by hoping for a peak inside.  We saw people coming in and stayed for the beginning of the service.  The main entrance is at the side of the nave but once inside we could see some activity at the main doors at the end.  We sat in the last row of extra chairs near the door so we had an excellent view of what was to come.  We just didn't know.  The church was dimly lit, but as the service was about to start the lights were turned off and the priest and deacons processed in toward the back.  The main doors were opened.  It was past sunset, but there was a bit of light still in the sky.  We saw a fire lit in a brazier just outside the door.  Amidst prayers the candle was ceremoniously lit and the procession slowly advanced down the center aisle.  As the priest and others approached the congregation they stopped and other candles were lit from the main one.  These in turn were used to light candles of those in the congregation.  It was beautiful.  As the procession moved forward the lights of the cathedral were turned on and the light spread.

This part of the service was not long, and we left as it ended, but it was beautiful.

I knew nothing about the Easter Vigil, but was we watched and listened I thought about what a vigil is and how it was being celebrated.  To me it is a time of waiting, watching, and enduring.  Perhaps solitary and sad, in despair or distress.  I thought of loved ones and grieving.  In Italy Christmas Eve is also referred to as la Vigilia, the vigil.  In both of these cases it is a ceremonial vigil, waiting and praying through the night, in anticipation of the coming of Christ, either his birth, or his resurrection.  

In this ceremony the light of the fire and candle represents the light of Jesus Christ dispelling darkness from our hearts and minds.  It was powerful to watch the light of a single candle be shared with others and see it spread among the parishioners.

As we waited in the dark I was reminded of the Book of Mormon story where people were waiting for the sign of the birth of Christ.  A prophet, Samuel, far from Jerusalem had prophesied years before of the coming of Jesus Christ and that there would be signs of his coming, including "a day a night and a day as if there were no night".  The unbelievers had assigned a day that the believers would be killed if the sign was not seen.  I imagine this was a very dark and dangerous time for the believers, waiting, watching, and enduring in faith.  As the day came near, Nephi prayed and heard a voice saying, "Lift up your head and be of food cheer; for behold, the time is at hand, and on this night shall the sign be given, and on the morrow come I into the world..." (3 Nephi 1:13)  That night the sun set, but there was no darkness.  In the morning the sun rose and from that time there was a new star in the heavens.

There are times that are dark, but there are also good things ahead.  In the Bible Paul refers to Jesus as an High Priest of Good Things to Come.  With faith, patience, and humility was can pass through the vigil to the peace and light at the other end.