Old Churches of Dublin

It seems like there is a church around every corner.  (OK, not every corner, but if there isn't a church on the corner there is at least a steeple or two within view.)  The ones that are the most noticeable are old and Gothic.  I've already mentioned our friendly neighborhood church, Aughrim Street Parish.

The back of Aughrim Street Parish

Another favorite is St Audoen's church.  We first saw it as we were finding our way home on the first Sunday we were here.  We "took a detour" on the way home when we either got on the wrong bus or missed our stop.  In the front garden there are outdoor musical instruments that the kids had a good time with.  I love that it is old and austere and still very much a functioning parish church.  It was erected in 1172 but has gone through periods of decay and rebuilding through the years.  In its heyday it was the heart of a wealthy parish and well connected to the guilds.

St Audoen's

The area labeled as St Anne's Chapel is now a little museum that talks about the history of the building and life at the time it was built.  My Boy's favorite object there was the trepanning tool.  Yikes!  

My favorite was the 15th century monument to Sir Roland FitzEustace in the base of the bell tower, what a great name for a Medieval nobelman.  There is an inscription on the front that says "Pray for the soul of Roland FitzEustace of Portlester who dedicated this place or chapel in honor of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also for the soul of Margaret, his wife, and for the souls of the faithful departed." (in Latin)  He was quite the guy who nearly started a civil war when he refused to give up his post as Lord High Treasurer of Ireland.

St. Audoen's is also the home of a lucky Celtic grave stone.  It is said to have a supernatural protector because in spite of being removed from its home several times, it always finds its way back.  The ghosts of the priests of St Audoen are said to protect it today.  In the 14th century it was placed near a cistern that was Dublin's first civic water supply.  Merchants would make a daily trip to rub the stone for luck.  Even today people will come and touch the stone for luck.

 "Happy" children touching the lucky stone

Relief on the wall of St Anne's chapel

One of the most famous churches in Dublin is Christ Church Cathedral.  The kids and I stopped by one morning for a little sketching and John and I went back later for the full tour.  There are days the kids are a bit tired of churches and museums and just want a day off from all of the touring, so we let them stay home with the TV and their devices and everyone is happy.

The morning we went out sketching turned out to be a beautiful sunny day.  We enjoyed taking time to sit and enjoy the scenery without rushing past.  There were plenty of tourists there that day walking by.  We became part of the show.  It was fun to listen to the tour guides as they told their stories and watch people watch us.  I tackled the top of the tower.  My Girl took on the door and curly iron work.  Quite successful for our first attempt at Urban Sketching.  I hope to do a lot more.

 It is all very Gothic now.  Like most things it didn't start out that way.  Like many structures that old there is a long history of building, decay and rebuilding.  Much of what you see today is Victorian era rebuilding.  I particularly liked the stained glass, the tile floors, and the crypt.  I also really liked the iron work on the doors and the oldest reliefs built into the walls.  Many were memorials from later time periods, but a few looked much older.

 Door to the stairs down to the crypt (and the crypt gift shop)

I also liked the tomb of Strongbow who led the Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland.  I later learned that he isn't actually buried here and the tomb is a 1570 replacement since the original was destroyed or damaged when the nave of the church collapsed in 1562.  It is unclear who the small figure it.  It could represent his son who died as a child.

 Reputed tomb of Strongbow an Anglo-Norman nobleman.

These churches are along a frequent bus route.  The grey stone church is St Peters church at the corner of Cabra road and North Circular road.  The red brick building used to be a church, but is now a solicitors office.  I love the contrast between the two.  I wish I knew the history of the little red church.  I took these photos from the top of the double decker bus so they are a bit hurried and the light post is a bit in the way.

In our wanderings we also came across what is informally called the Black Church.  It is called the black church because the stone appears black when wet, that would be a lot of the time here in Dublin.  It no longer serves as a church, but had some interesting architecture and a rather sinister legend associated with it.  (Sorry no picture.)  The legend says that if you run around the church three times at midnight you will summon the devil.  Austin Clarke, a Dublin poet and author, wrote an autobiography in 1962 called Twice Around the Black Church.  What an evocative title.

So many churches, so little time.  We haven't even made it to St. Patrick's yet.